chefbari

“A tavola non si invecchia mai.”

[At the table, one never grows old]

A Night of Heritage, Family, and the Italian Spirit

Last night was a beautiful reminder that in Italian culture, food isn’t just sustenance—it is the glue that holds family and community together. I had the pleasure of attending a Christmas Dinner Party with my daughter, hosted by her employer and their family.

The evening was hosted by a local company that clearly values the same thing my Nonno Tony Varze did: craftsmanship and connection. While one of the business partners couldn’t be with us because he was home tending to his sick children, my heart went out to him. As many of you know from my own personal journey, I truly understand the weight and worry of caring for a loved one. Family always comes first, and his presence was missed at the table.

A Return to Roots

The evening took place at Buco Pizzeria + Vino Bar in the Epcor Tower. Walking into the modern, inviting decor, I couldn’t help but smile. Buco is part of a storied local restaurant group that carries a lot of history for me. Twenty-five years ago, I was actually invited to work as a Chef for this group. I ended up taking another path at the time, but the interview itself was special—the founders knew my Nonno Tony Varze within the Italian community. It’s a small world when you share the same roots.

The Six-Course Symphony

Our set menu followed the traditional flow my grandfather loved: Insalate (Salads), Antipasti (Appetizers), Primi (Pasta), Secondi (Main Entrees), and Dolce (Dessert).

We began with a crisp Caesar Salad, followed by an incredible spread of Antipasti including Arancini—those golden, fried Arborio rice balls from Sicily—and tender breaded Calamari. The pasta course brought Ravioli and a classic Rigatoni Bolognese. The smell of that sauce took me right back to Nonno Tony’s kitchen. I can still see him spending all day tending to a massive pot, pouring in a full bottle of his homemade red wine to let it simmer for hours.

The Art of the Table: Nothing Slips My Chef’s Eye

As a Chef, my eyes are always scanning the room, and nothing slips past me—especially when it comes to authentic ingredients. Looking at the wooden placards on the wall at the restaurant, I was immediately transported. Each name represents a staple that makes our regional dishes “sing”:

• Pancetta & Capocollo: These take me straight to the sun-drenched hills of Calabria.
• Grana Padano: The “kissing cousin” to Parmigiano-Reggiano. Many of us Italians actually prefer Grana for its creamy, nutty finish from the Po River Valley.
• Prosciutto: A delicate masterpiece from the Northern regions like Parma.
• Burrata: Representing the creamier traditions of Puglia.
• Pecorino: A sharp cheese echoing the rugged mountains of Lazio.
• Gorgonzola: This legendary blue cheese brings the soul of the Lombardy and Piedmont regions to the plate.
• Fontina: A taste of the high Alpine pastures in the Aosta Valley.
• Soppressata & Ricotta: Staples that define the rustic heart of Southern Italy and Sicily.

These ingredients are the building blocks of the flavors we enjoyed, from the creamy cheese in the Arancini to the salty depth in the Bolognese. As a kid, I remember being full by the third course at Nonno Tony Varze’s house, and last night felt much the same!

A Heartfelt Thank You

I want to extend a sincere thank you to our hosts for the invitation. It was a wonderful culinary selection, but more importantly, it was a wonderful evening of company.

To my daughter: thank you for inviting me. It touches my heart to see you thriving and to share our Italian heritage together. In Italy, and in the Varze family, it has always been about the family. 🇮🇹🇮🇹And yes, I miss Nonno Tony Varze, who taught me how to make and cook pasta from a young age. 

Have a Merry Christmas my friends

Ciao – Chef Bari